Zambia 2011 - Kapishya Hot Springs & Shiwa Ng'andu

Once across the Border from Malawi, which was a much easier process than at Kazangula, as it's a tiny border post we soon left the main gravel road and took a short cut which turned out to be a single track which got narrower and narrower until it was almost only a walking track. The photo shows a good part of the track!)

However it eventually got a bit better and we made it to the Great North Road where we then headed south to Kapishya Hot Springs (S11 10.242 E31 36.027) - a site recommend by Mel and Graeme who we met in Malawi - and well worth the 30km or so it is off the main road.

Kapishya has a lodge and a nearby campsite. For the first time since we left South Africa 2 months ago there were several other travelers camping at the site - but we still got a great place right next to the river. We chatted to Chippy and Bessie who live near Nottingham Road in KZN and were returning from Ruaha National Park in Tanzania - they said that it's well worth a visit and much quieter than the Serengeti.

The lounge / bar / restaurant at the Lodge.

Our site by the river.

The hot springs are a short walk from the campsite and are greatl! First thing in the morning and in the evening steam rises from the pool - having a dip late in the evening was wonderful.

The hot springs pool in the early morning.

Having a dip in the afternoon.

The view of the swimming pool with the river behind it from the very comfortable upstairs lounge in the Lodge.

Kevin soon managed to subjugate this hippo in the swimming pool - no swimming in the river because of crocodiles.

Part of the lovely grounds of the lodge.

There were beautifully tended vegetable and fruit gardens.

Rock art has recently been discovered near the lodge so we were invited to have a look. This involved crossing the river on a narrow bridge made up of poles - tricky! .

Crossing the bridge -slowly and carefully.

Most of the rock art consisted of circles and designs. As yet these signs haven't been 'deciphered' but they are hoping to find out more about them in the future.

Shiwa Ng'andu (S11 11.753 E31 44.227) is an estate that was built by Stewart Gore-Browne after World War 1. Unlike most colonials he built proper houses with tiled roofs for his workers, a farm, schools, and a hospital. Later he was an important figure in the transition from colonial rule to independence and was knighted by George VI and given the Order of Freedom by Kenneth Kaundu, the Zambian president.

After his death his children moved to a farm near Lusaka and the estate fell into disrepair however his grandchildren have now returned to the farm and gradually the estate is being returned to its former glory. There are photos of what it was like before and during the restoration on th Shiwa Ng'andu website.

Kapishya Hot Springs is part of the estate and is owned and run by Mark, his grandson.

The entrance fee of $20 per person is rather expensive but at least the fee does go to the local community.

The clock tower, lodge and main entrance to the avenue leading to the house.

The avenue leading to the house.

Shiwa Ng'andu - the house.

We were shown round a few of the rooms in the house, the others are used by the family and there are a few guest rooms. We saw the chapel, dining room, library, sitting room and a couple of corridors – everywhere was packed full of items brought over from the UK by Stewart Gore-Brown, huge paintings, china, books, ornaments etc .  It's amazing that he was able to transport all of it overland for miles.

The library.

A view of the garden from the library.

The chapel.

The dining room.

One of the workers' cottages that has been restored.

The pig sties at the farm.

Stewart Gore-Browne is buried on the hill beside the house at this beautiful location overlooking the lake.

Travelling to Malawi:

Botswana - Nata bird sanctuary & Senyati.

Victoria Falls from the Zambian side.

South Luangwa National Park.

Travelling back from northern Malawi:

Kapishya Hot Springs & Shiwa Ng'andu.

Mutinondo Wilderness Area and Kasanka National Park.

Diary (Word document).









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